Henna, also known as Mehndi, is a natural dye that can be used to colour Sisterlocks – and it can also make hair thicker and stronger. Henna comes from a tree known as Lawsonia Inermis – also known as the henna tree or mignonette tree. It comes in a powder form for use as a hair dye.
Two months ago, I showed you, step-by-step, how I dye my hair with henna and today I want to talk about a few of the dos and don’t when colouring your Sisterlocks with henna.
To see how to apply it to Sisterlocks, check out the video for the full henna dyeing process.
Now on to the dos and don’ts!
Dos – when using henna
- USE PURE, NATURAL HENNA
Do your research about which brands to use. I now use Henna Sooq henna. When choosing your henna it should be pure and natural and should be free of chemicals – that includes PPD, which is sometimes added to henna powders to intensify the colour and reduce the application time. You can tell by a combination of looking at the packaging, checking the instructions for application time (e.g. if you only have to leave it on for a short time, it probably isn’t pure henna) and also the set time – you’ll need to leave the henna mixture for between 8 to 12 hours for the lawsone dye to be released – before it is ready to be applied to your Sisterlocks. The colour of the henna powder from the packet should be a dull green colour. - WRAP YOUR SISTERLOCKS IN NON-PVC CLING FIL/SERIN WRAP
When you have applied the henna to your hair, you will need to wrap it in cling film so that it does not dry out, while you wait for the dye to take – for around 3 to 5 hours. Using non-PVC cling film is also a good idea to avoid liquid plasticizers leaching out – as some, like DEHA, are a possible human carcinogen. - SKIN PATCH TEST AND GREY STRAND TEST
If it’s your first time using henna or you are using a henna brand that you have never used before, you should do a skin patch test. The brand I use, It’s Pure, sells sample sizes which are perfect for this, so you don’t have to commit to a larger packet, until you’ve tested it. Do the skin test by applying the henna paste to a small patch of skin and then waiting for 24 hours to see whether you have reacted to it – any itching or soreness. Likewise with the strand test. Find a small patch of grey hairs, or a couple of grey Sisterlocks and apply the henna paste. After you’ve washed it off and waited, check whether you’re happy with the colour. - ADD EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL (EVOO) TO YOUR HENNA MIXTURE
To moisturise your hair. Henna can be drying and by adding an oil such as EVOO to the mixture, it will help. It is also a great addition to the mixture because it makes it easier to mix and makes the mixture smoother – which in turn makes it easier to apply. You can also add a little oil to your hair after you have rinsed out all of the henna for added moisture.
Don’ts – when using henna
- DON’T USE HENNA ALONGSIDE CHEMICAL/ARTIFICIAL, PERMANENT OR SEMI-PERMANENT HAIR DYES.
The two don’t mix, and if you do mix them, it could lead to breakage. Use one or the other or if switching, grow out your hair first. - DON’T USE ANYTHING METAL WHEN PREPARING YOUR HENNA MIXTURE
This includes metal bowls, spoons, or other implements – and any metal jewellery. Metal that comes into contact with the henna can tarnish. Stick to ceramic, glass, plastic or wood instead. - DON’T KEEP YOUR HENNA PASTE IN A COLD PLACE
When you have mixed your henna paste to prepare it for use, you will need to set aside. During this time, your henna mixture should ideally be kept in a warm place or at room temperature to encourage the lawsone dye (the red-orange dye) in the henna to be released so that it’s ready for use around 8 to 12 (and up to 24) hours after being mixed. - MAKE SURE THAT THE HENNA MIXTURE DOES NOT DRY OUT ON YOUR SISTERLOCKS
After you’ve applied the henna mixture to your Sisterlocks make sure it doesn’t dry out. This means you will have to work as fast as you can to get the henna all over the sections of your hair that you want to colour, and then wrap it in cling film/saran wrap. The aim is to keep it moist so that the dye can do its work effectively and to keep it moist until you are ready to rinse the dye out fully. Another thing is, if you let the henna dry on your hair – which I have done once – it becomes a hard solid mass that is very difficult to wash out, and it can cling to weaker strands, e.g. along the hairline and pull them out, so beware!
